What is the best whitewater raft?

That question is like asking if you prefer a Ford or Chevy truck. Rafts come in all shapes sizes colors and textures; however the composition of their materials is a hotly debated topic in the river community. There are two basic compositions for whitewater rafts rubber or plastic. These categories are not hard and fast rules but general guidelines and many raft manufactures are beginning to move to divergent fusions to try to mitigate the weaknesses and maximize the advantages of different materials. Whichever boat that you choose to purchase or use make sure you know the advantages and disadvantages of each craft before you buy.

Rubber Boats

These boats are the classic whitewater raft with origins dating back before World War II. In fact many early commercial rafts were military surplus rafts picked up by outfitters. Today modern designs and new materials have created plenty of great boats that last for decades. If you prefer a raft that feels stable on the water and easy to sit in, rubber rafts will have a special place in your fleet.

Composition

Rubber rafts are typically made from chlorosulfonated polyethylene a synthetic rubber often marketed under the DuPont® trademark Hypalon®. This material is a strong chemical resistant material that makes up the bulk of whitewater raft material. Layers of this are sandwiched around a woven Kevlar mesh to provide an exceptional material for whitewater rafts. In addition, it makes for quick and easy repairs to the vessel when the rubber boat becomes damaged.

Losses rigidity with age

Higher drag coefficent

Seams can delaminate in hot conditions

Less prone to flipping

More grippy seats

Easy to roll/packs down

Feels stable on the water

Storage

Storing rubber boats can be very easy because of the pliable nature of the materials. Rubber boats are easy to roll and transport however, if they are stored for long periods, rolled rubber has the tendency to bond to itself. This creates problems when you remove your raft from long term (2-3 months+) storage especially when rolled. The exterior surface tends to delaminate from the underlying fiber layer. This problem can be mitigated with a generous application of talcum powder before you store it for long periods. Unfortunately you may still find that your boat will bond to itself even when powdered especially in humid conditions. Because of this problem many boaters who use their rubber rafts infrequently often complain of reduced life expectancy and delamination problems.

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Recent Trends

Recently we have noticed a new trend emerging from the rubber boat manufacturers of adding urethane chafer strips to the floor and bottoms of the tubes. This will give you some of the advantages of a plastic boat’s ability to slip over rocks and giving the boat a sportier feel. The disadvantage comes from the fact that patching any damage at the seam of the chafer strips an absolute nightmare because of the multiple compositions of the materials.

Plastic Rafts

If you enjoy slipping over rocks and running slides this is the boat for you. Plastic boats tend to lead the industry in terms of sportiness, speed, and sliding over obstacles. Many designs feature diminishing tubes which some boaters prefer and some hate depending upon their boating preferences.

Composition

PVC or Poly Vinyl Chloride is a cheap easily manufactured synthetic plastic polymer used by most of the lower end raft manufacturers. PVC is typically welded together through various methods at the seams in the tubes. PVC’s greatest weakness is the fact that it is brittle at or below room temperature (not a good quality for us boaters).

Urethane

Rafts made from urethane enjoy a number of advantages over their PVC counterparts and the higher end raft manufacturers, like SOTAR, use Urethane as their go to material for building rafts. This material has elastomeric memory properties, meaning it will return to its original form when stretched, as well as being non-brittle resisting cracking under shock loading.

Less prone to wrapping

High rigidity especially when punching waves

More punctures and rip resistance

Slides over rocks obstructions easily

Lower drag coefficient

Sporty feel on the water

Plastic can flake off with age

More prone to flipping

Prone to shattering with impact especially when cold (PVC Boats)

Limited elasticity (PVC Boats)

Can feel unstable

Storage

Storing plastic boats can be a bit trickier in comparison to their rubber counterparts. Plastic boats don’t really like to be rolled and they generally do not pack down well when you try to roll them. The best way to store one of these boats is laid out flat, so if you do purchase one ideally you should have a flat open garage or storage area to lay it out on. Unlike their rubber counterparts you don’t need to worry about delamination from material sticking together when you store them over a winter.

Welded seams are one major improvement that higher end manufacturers like SOTAR have latched onto over their rubber counterparts thereby eliminating delamination that rubber boats often experience in storage.

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Recent Trends

Some of the lower end manufacturers have begun to slap rubber chafer strips to the top of the tubes on the seat area as a stop gap measure for the slipperiness of the seat problem. This is a nice benefit, but if the chafer strip is too large or the boat is a big boat it tends to add a lot of weight to the boat negating the sportiness of a plastic boat. Serious manufacturers like SOTAR, Marvaia, and Aire have an array of options to help reduce weight and add amazing amounts of grip to the seat without sacrificing performance.

So what raft should I buy?

Much like surfers have multiple boards in their quiver to accommodate different conditions, as rafters we will often develop diverse fleets especially if you run many different types of rivers.

Like my ol’ pappy used to say “Boy don’t use a screw driver to pound a nail.”

The best advice if you are looking for a first purchase or to add a new boat to the fleet is to follow the “over 50% rule”. Ask yourself what you are going to be running over 50% of the time with your boat. Then, demo some different rafts to get a feel for what you feel comfortable with. Next, ask people in your area and those who share your boating style and preference what they prefer to boat on. Finally, find a boat with the features that you want for a price that you can afford.

Unfortunately there is not one catch all boat to fit every circumstance. A commercial outfitter has a different preference to a racer or an expedition boater. The local conditions, your boating style and your personal preferences will play a huge factor in what you should use.

If you still have questions feel free to contact us and we can try to point you in the right direction.

We would also like to thank SOTAR for contributing photos and technical advice. Please check out their product on Instagram and give them a follow.

Raft Construction

Raft Construction

For me, the type of raft, the make, the size, the tube diameter, and the age of the raft itself, is highly relevant to the trips we run. There have been many discussions through the years about how guests (i.e. clients, i.e. customers) simply do not know enough about whitewater to care about what raft they are in. I disagree. I think that definitely, people don’t have the same sort of scrutinizing eye that guides have, and they don’t spend their evenings kicking around the boatyard like the guides, arguing about whether or not a self bailing raft is a necessity for safety, or if Aire’s ballast floor really prevents “some” flips, or if diminishing tubes offer advantages as far as gear hauling; nonetheless I think it does matter and I think people notice.

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There’s a few jokes I like to tell on occasion, and some of the readers have had the misfortune of hearing them (I am not funny)… my favorite joke I like to use when I start the safety talk at rivers edge for the upper Skagit is something like “welcome to the river everybody, we have experienced guides, prepared guests, and top notch life jackets helmets, and equipment, this is a great way to build a safe trip” (I pretty much always say that) “we have only the highest quality rafts for you today, we buy your rafts at K-Mart”… Everyone laughs, and maybe once in a while someone gets worried that we actually use K-Mart rafts, which is probably even more disturbing than me actually running a whitewater river in such a raft. The point is that it does matter where rafts come from. It does matter if they are capable of contributing to a safe trip. It’s my opinion that it matters, and even though I have guides that do not care which raft they run, day in and day out, we all recognize that some rafts have distinct characteristics, which help them excel in certain situations. Let’s talk about those situations.

Self-bailing vs. “bucket” rafts

Triad River Tours uses self-bailing rafts on all of our rivers to ensure a safe and fun trip.

Triad River Tours uses self-bailing rafts on all of our rivers to ensure a safe and fun trip.

Let’s start with the bare basics. All modern day rafts used in commercial applications should be self-bailing. Long gone are the days when we supplied you with a bucket and a ½ gallon minute maid orange juice container, equipped with the side cut out, in order for you to bail all water that entered the side of the raft. Mind you, this is a lot of water if you’re whitewater rafting. I should know, when I started rafting in 1994, I used to bail water. At that time the company I was training with had their older model boats that were bucket boats (non self bailing), and then there was the new fleet, which were self-bailing. Sometimes you’d end up in a new one and sometimes an old one. I remember spending half the day bailing the raft out if it was one of those old bucket boats, and I wouldn’t wish that on anyone.

Along the same lines, we have to realize that the bottom of the raft is going to have a constant stream of water coming in and out because the floor is inflated, and has drain holes or seams on the sides and often times also in the front. Self-bailing boats give you incredible versatility, added safety (floors can be removed in case of a pinned raft) and make the experience more enjoyable because you can focus on scenery instead of looking down all the time and smashing your head into people’s knees. Furthermore bucket boats don’t maneuver well when full of water, it’s like rafting with an anchor tied to the bottom. Well, the long story short here is that modern whitewater rafts are almost exclusively self-bailing for a reason; they perform better. Make sure that your outfitter is equipped with self bailing rafts, and if not, I would love to hear the reasoning (other than simple cost effectiveness of keeping outdated equipment in use) for using such a craft in this advanced stage of watercraft.

Diminishing Tubed Rafts

This debate used to rage on 15-20 years ago, back when Riken was leading the pack and the Nez Perce was the model to have on multi-day rafting expeditions. Those days have long passed and the diminishing tube craze has settle down into more of an aspect of our sport. Diminishing tube boats offer smaller tube diameter in the front and (usually) rear of the raft. This gets the guests wetter, and also increased cargo space in the front and rear sections of the raft. Diminishing tube boats are also naturally better in the wind since they have less surface area going into it. There are multitudes of other arguments for and against which I will not go into because I am not someone that thinks the difference needs to be expressed complicatedly, but suffice to say that there are guides and private whitewater boaters out there who either love or hate diminishing tubes. I am indifferent and will use either, but in specific situations. Here are a few:

Diminishing tube boats are not our cup of tea on the Sauk River, and here’s why: We tried out several designs before choosing a raft on the Sauk River, a few models would be the Aire Puma, Super Puma, 130D (D stands for diminishing tube), 143D, the Maravia Diablo, and the Maravia Spider. All of these boats did very well, but for us they weren’t ideal particularly because we thought that in the worst-case scenario they kept people colder. Let me explain further; in early season the Sauk water temperature is usually in the high 30s, perfect for hypothermia exposure. The air temperature at this time of year is usually hovering in the 50-70 range, so collectively you have a pretty cold trip. While we think that getting splashed can really add some excitement to the trip, we didn’t think that it was helpful in terms of safety because a cold guest cannot function as well as a warm and comfortable one. Thus, we eventually decided to scrap the idea of running diminishing tube boats earlier in the season. We have had a lot of success in the warmer months with them, however, as the higher temperatures give people more enthusiasm to get a big splash of water to the face.

Raft Materials: Hypalon vs. PVC vs. Urethane

If there was ever an ongoing argument in the industry, it is the opinions about the best raft material and construction. It’s not as simple as saying that you are a fan of one raft material vs. the other, because in actuality each manufacturer cures, builds, or treats the base material differently, so there are fundamental differences in each manufacturer’s boats. But who makes the best boat?

When I was 13 years old I traveled around to trade shows and sold rafting trips with my dad. Every time people would ask us what kind of boats we used we would say, with pride; “Riken”. Well, at that time Riken was a great boat. They’ve since been bought by NRS and as far as I know are no longer in production. Still, Riken boats revolutionized the industry and many commercial rafting outfits still have old Rikens that sit in the corner of the shop rolled up and come out only once or twice per year when 500 sorority sisters or an entire Microsoft employee wing comes on a rafting trip. Point here is that Rikens were good boats, and they were made of Hypalon, which has dominated the industry for some time since. Hypalon, or rubber, is the base material (it’s often called something else, or I suppose Hypalon is a registered trademark, but it has become slang for all boats made of rubber). Rubber rafts like NRS, Hyside, Avon, and many others are fairly inexpensive to build, and are relatively solid in construction and durability. They flex with waves (sometimes desired sometimes not) and they are easily rolled for storage. Rubber boats are also very easy to patch; you just prep, glue, and let cure a patch of rubber onto the raft. Rubber boats are reasonably priced and easy to fix, which makes them ideal for large commercial rafting companies. You’ll see a lot of rubber (i.e. hypalon) rafts out on the river, and if you search craigslist and you see an old raft for sale that looks like it’s seen better days, it’s probably an old hypalon boat (with expected patches on side tubes and floor, par the norm).

Here’s where I have developed an opinion. PVC is a cheap material. You’ve used PVC pipe and you’ve seen it break. PVC is not the toughest stuff out there, but it is often used for rafts. The thing about PVC is that it’s very inexpensive and easy to come by; it’s also very easy to repair. PVC comes in many grades and different chemical makeups, but PVC ultimately must abide by its essential properties.

Commercial rafts are rarely made of PVC for good reason; it’s just not tough enough. One exception to this rule is those boats manufactured by Aire. These boats are a PVC exterior that is zipped over a urethane bladder. In this case the PVC acts as a buffer for the Urethane and thus prevents punctures. They also save costs because the urethane (the expensive part) is relatively thin compared to the beefy layer of PVC, which protects it. Furthermore Aire uses a type of PVC known as Ferrari which is tops in the industry. Aire has made quite a name for itself with its borderline ingenious design, and they deserve a lot of credit. Furthermore, what Aire may lack in material strength they make up for in customer service. They have long been known as the best in customer service in the industry and as a result have eaten up a large part of market share due to their persistence and dedication to their customers. Aire boats have an outstanding warranty and service. If your Aire boat does develop a leak you can be sure that someone at the factory will be helping you deal with it. They are also an incredible value, so it’s worth noting that you certainly get what you pay for. There’s no doubt that if you are going to go with a boat made primarily of PVC, that Aire is the only choice. The boats are also manufactured solely in the USA (Boise, Idaho).

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Polyurethane (Urethane)

Sotar, Wing, Maravia, and Aire all manufacture boats made of some kind of what they call polyurethane, and they are all very different. Sotar is an industry leading whitewater raft manufacturer that has built a reputation as being state of the art (hence the name: State Of The Art Rafts is an acronym). Sotar boats are constructed very simply by welding sheets of urethane together in a similar fashion, as are many rubber rafts. The boats come out looking very clean and simple. The advantage to Sotar rafts is that they are incredibly light for their strength. They are among the lightest in the industry, and they also fold and roll well. Sotar boats are expensive but you get what you pay for. The company is incredibly solid also, and because all of their boats are built by hand you can pretty much have anything you want.

We’ve used Sotar boats on both of our rivers and the most outstanding thing about them is the way they slide over rocks. They have a silky finish on them that seems to not stick to things, including your butt… so maybe you can slide a little bit on your Sotar, but you can expect many years of use from a Sotar boat.

Maravia rafts are constructed in Boise, Idaho and are made of a PVC shell, which is then encapsulated in urethane. The result is an incredibly tough exterior. In most cases, in our experience, there is no tougher material made than that, which makes up the tubes on a Maravia. The weak point in these rafts is the floors, which are a high grade PVC. While Maravia isn’t as light as a Sotar they aren’t incredibly heavy, and they have a clean look. Whilst many boats have a smooth texture, Maravia has gone one step further and made a matte type finish on all their rafts, which in some cases can help people stay in the raft and avoid sliding out. Maravia rafts are all constructed by hand here in the USA, and are among our favorites. Maravia is a smaller company and they stand by their products, but this is one raft that may never need warranty repair.

Maravia rafts are durable and expensive, nearly exactly the price of an equivalent Sotar, and they lack the ability to be rolled up easily. Maravia rafts are handy in tough situations because they are so rigid and dependable, they also are stiffer than other rafts and thus they are more active on the water. Some people have called them “fliptavias” because they tend to flip, but this can mostly be explained by the slick bottoms of the rafts which also provide excellent responsiveness. Maravia and Sotar rafts are both “expert” level rafts that have no equal in the industry in my opinion. They are commonly used as commercial whitewater rafts and are revered by private boaters that can afford them.

Can You Use Flex Seal On A Rubber Raft?

Can You Use Flex Seal On A Rubber Raft?

Can You Use Flex Seal On A Rubber Raft?

Flex Seal is a liquid rubber sealant you can apply to surfaces, forming an instant waterproof barrier. It’s easy to apply and will never sag, crack or peel.

Flex Seal is great for many things around the home or office, including roofing repairs, gutters, pipes, windows, and even your boat.

Can You Use Flex Seal on a rubber raft? Yes, you can use Flex Seal on a rubber raft to waterproof it.

Flex Seal is a known liquid rubber sealant that comes in a can with an attached flexing nozzle for easy application.

Besides being waterproof, the sealant will adhere to most surfaces, including plastic and metal.

A single can of Flex Seal should be more than enough material to cover one of the notoriously inexpensive Styrofoam;

Or vinyl inflatable rafts typically sold at large retailers such as Walmart, Target, and Walgreens.

The first step is ensuring the rubber raft is clean and dry before applying the Flex Seal.

Wipe any dirt or dust from the surface using a damp rag, then leave it out in the sun until all moisture has evaporated.

For maximum waterproofing, use a paint roller to apply the Flex Seal. First, shake the can vigorously for two minutes per the included instructions.

Hold it upside down and dispense a line of Flex Seal along with one of the long horizontal edges of the raft.

This would ensure all surface areas are ample sealant coated even if they weren’t accessible during application.

Roll on additional layers until you cannot see any gaps between coatings on your rubber raft anymore. Allow one hour of drying time in between each layer, up to four or five coats.

Allow 24 hours for your inflatable rubber raft to completely dry before using it again in nature or otherwise exposing it to water.

Is Flex Seal Suitable For Inflatables?

Yes, Flex Seal is suitable for inflatables. It seals out the elements, so your inflatable doesn’t get ruined in rain, wind, snow, or even just sitting unused.

Here’s how it works: you spray Flex Seal directly on any leak, then let it dry into a rubberized coating that will never peel or chip.

A single can of Flex Seal can treat leaks through 72 square feet of surface area.

After treating the puncture with Flex Seal, wipe away excess before exposing it to air; otherwise, it may leave a white residue on your inflatable.

Is Flex Seal Tape Permanent?

No, Flex Seal tape is not permanent. It takes a long time to set and can get ripped apart from the objects you use.

The company has received accusations of false advertising because it claims that Flex Seal can protect almost anything from water, but this is not true.

Drilling holes in the tape allows water to seep through.

Dirt and grime will accumulate inside these holes and eventually rust your metal objects underneath if you don’t clean them out frequently enough.

If you want your Flex Tape (or any other type of sealing product) to remain sealed for longer than a few weeks.

Consider adding weatherstripping around the edges where the tape meets the surfaces surrounding them as well as along any cracks or crevices.

This prevents water from getting underneath the strip in the first place or accumulating dirt and grime once it has.

As you repeat this process for every sealing project you complete, your sealant should remain sealed much longer than just using Flex Tape by itself.

The key is to keep debris out of the holes so that water can’t get through to rust metal surfaces underneath.

There are other reasons you may want the remove Flex Seal tape removed, such as repainting an area if they don’t like their current color choice (Flex Strip paint rarely adheres well).

As long as you take precautions not to let any moisture seep under the edges, it should peel off without too much difficulty.

How Do I Keep Spiders Off My Pontoon Boat?

Before using Flex Tape or any other sealing product, consider the way you’ll want to remove it in case you ever need to.

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If there are holes in the tape, you may have trouble painting over the area after removing it since dirt and grime will have seeped in.

You should also leave enough space so that your paintbrush doesn’t get snagged on the edges when you’re applying it to your walls or furniture.

How Many Coats Of Flex Seal Do I Need?

Several even coats of Flex Seal will give you a pleasant and smooth appearance.

But we suggest 3 to 4 coats if you’re using Flex Seal in full strength, or 5 to 6 coats at half strength (fluid ounce).

Also, do not forget the initial coat, which is best applied evenly, covering all areas of your surface. After this, you wait about 2 hours before re-coating with another layer.

Length of time between initial application and subsequent coating will depend upon climate conditions (humidity levels particularly);

Temperature, and application surface material (wood v/s metal, for example).

I recommend waiting no less than two hours when applying Flex Seal to anything other than wood; most surfaces should be sufficiently dry after two hours for treatment.

When using Flex Seal in its half and half (fluid ounce) strength, it’s recommended that you wait 4 to 6 hours before re-coating.

This will allow the sealant to dry slightly and provide more durability, elasticity, and longevity to your finished project.

As far as how many coats of Flex Seal you’ll need, I suggest between 3 and 5 depending on the application (wood v/s metal, for example).

Generally, most wood surfaces should get two initial coats which should provide enough coverage for lawn furniture or any other outdoor applications.

2 initial coats should also suffice for most garage door applications.

I suggest starting with a 50% coat first and then building up layers till you’ve arrived at the desired appearance.

For any interior surfaces, be it wall or ceiling, I suggest only one initial coat and then following up with a final sealant coat once the surface is fully cured.

This will allow for optimum adhesion to the substrate and maximum viscosity/tackiness of Flex Seal when in its liquid form.

The most common complaint with Flex Seal seems to surround application; people apply too much on their first pass and end up having drips everywhere.

Which increases drying time considerably (4-6 hours). If you’re using Flex Seal in full strength.

You’ll want between 4-6 coats spaced 2 hours apart from each other before checking for dryness (24 hour cure time) and then resuming normal activities.

Using Flex Seal in its half and half (fluid ounce) strength requires 5-6 coats spaced 4-6 hours apart from each other before checking for dryness (24 hour cure time).

Again, I recommend waiting 24 hours before putting everyday stress or load on your finished project for maximum durometer and durability of the sealant.

Can You Walk On Flex Seal?

No. You should not use Flex Seal should as a walking surface. The only place you should step on it is to take off your shoes before stepping into your home or office.

If you were looking for the answer to this question, you’ve probably seen the advertisement where people run and jump on Flex Seal.

This can damage the product, causing it to peel away from whatever surface is initially covered with it (concrete, wood, metal).

If this happens, then you will need to re-apply FlexSeal over the top of itself to do what it’s supposed to do in the first place, prevent leaks.

Is Flex Seal Better Than Silicone?

Yes, Flex Seal is better than silicone. Even though it might be a new product that has received a lot of hype, it works great for finishing seams and sealing things with excellent efficiency.

Flex Seal is a spray paint that you can use on different surfaces to add a layer of protection.

This fantastic product was even featured in the popular show Shark Tank, so you know it must have been good.

Compared with silicone, which is one of the most durable materials used to do construction work, you can see that Flex Seal isn’t just a cheaper option but a more effective one.

Does Flex Seal Require A Primer?

Yes, Flex Seal requires a primer. This is because the sealant formulation for Flex Seal includes fillers and powders that need mixing with water before application.

Thus, they cannot create a sealed layer alone on a flexible base material.

Does Flex Tape Work On Inflatable Pools?

Yes, Flex Tape works on inflatable pools.

The adhesion strength of our tape is strong enough for use in patching inflatables, pool toys, water guns, swimming caps, waders, and other items that are subject to leaks.

Flex Tape was initially designed to fix any pipe leak. It’s created by using a unique manufacturing process that makes the tape incredibly strong.

So it can handle even the most challenging conditions, including underwater or high-pressure environments.

It’s so strong it’s commonly called “Super Tape” because of its impressive capabilities.

Flex Tape will work well if you have an inflatable item with a small hole in it every time you patch up your pool toy or other inflatables around the pool.

Does Gorilla Tape Work Underwater?

Yes. Gorilla tape works underwater.

The name “gorilla” is well known for its high adhesive qualities, and the durability of the tape ensures that it stays attached to surfaces even when submerged in water (or other liquids).

It’s easy to imagine many situations where keeping something dry would be necessary: rainstorms, rafting adventures, pool parties—to name a few.

People involved in these activities may try using products like plastic wrap or duct tape for this purpose.

But any experienced hobbyist knows that none of these methods work, as well as gorilla tape.

Waterproof tarpaulins might keep moisture out, but they either lack adhesion or are so heavy that carrying would defeat the purpose of protecting items.

When responding to a customer’s question about how well the tape holds up in the water, a worker from Gorilla Glue described it as “the world’s best tape.”

Many different objects have been together taped using this strong adhesive for long periods and under conditions that would have caused other tapes to fail.

Can You Use Flex Seal On A Rubber Raft?

You can repair everything from boat decks, car grilles, and bathroom fixtures with gorilla tape. The same idea holds when you apply the tool underwater.

One service company reported successfully having used gorilla tape to seal ducts on a jet engine submerged 100 feet underwater.

If the tape works well enough to fix an airplane part that costs thousands or millions of dollars, it will work just fine on the raft you brought with you to the lake.

The tape stays on surfaces for extended periods, even when they are moving.

If it can work while a car is speeding down the highway at 70 mph, it will undoubtedly be able to do its job underwater.

It’s also resistant to both abrasion and physical impact damage, two things that are likely to happen when an object hits another one underwater or slams into a rock during rapids.

Is There A Tape That Can Stick To Wet Surfaces?

Yes. Flex tape. Flex tape sticks to wet surfaces. It’s a flexible waterproof tape that you can use for many things.

Yes, flex tape works. This stuff is fantastic. You can use it to patch holes in boats or kayaks, seal leaky pipes and even fix a broken shovel handle.

You have to apply the tape strips to a clean, dry surface and then submerge underwater.

The super-strong adhesive will hold up when your item gets wet because it’s three tapes rolled into one that you apply in layers: rubber, fabric, and plastic.

Conclusion

Flex Seal is one of the best tapes on the market for repairing inflatables. You can apply it to both wet and dry surfaces, so you don’t have to worry about whether it will stick.

You also won’t need a primer because it creates its sealant when applied correctly.

If your rubber raft has any holes in it, use this tape immediately before the water gets inside and ruins anything else that might be inside as well.

Source https://www.raftingmag.com/rafting-magazine/rubber-vs-plastic-boats

Source https://triadrivertours.com/river-research/2014/12/22/raft-construction

Source https://pontoonsowner.com/can-you-use-flex-seal-on-a-rubber-raft/

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