How To Row A Drift Boat Or Raft: 13 Tips To Catch More Fish

If you want to catch more fish on your next float trip, you need to learn how to row a drift boat or raft properly.

In this guide, I’m going to reveal 13 of my top rowing tips to help you get down the river safely, and maximize your fish-catching opportunities.

Let’s get started.

1) Get Down The River Safely (And Slowly)

I hope this goes without saying, but goal number one when rowing a drift boat or raft is to get down the river safely. No matter how big the fish might be, it isn’t worth risking your life or the life of others.

Goal number two is different.

For the White-Water trip, the thrill is going fast through the big hole, getting wet, and running down the wave trains.

Rowing for fishing, on the other hand, means going SLOW.

Not only does it provide more control, but back-rowing allows the fisherman more time at each hole.

Remember, fish don’t live in the crazy-fast-moving water, so you want to spend your time in eddies, along bubble lines, near riverbank cuts, and other cover.

2) Row Backwards More Than Forwards

The first thing to remember is to SLOW EVERYTHING DOWN.

You will row in a backstroke 90% of the time.

Point your boat toward the danger and pull away from the danger. You want to be out of the main current. The fish don’t live there, so you shouldn’t be there.

Your goal as the rower is to put the fisherman where the fish are so look far downstream for your target.

This will give you more time to fish that target without the shadow of the boat spooking the fish.

3) Place The Boat Within The Casting Capabilities Of The Fisherman

Being 30 yards from a target won’t work if your fisherman can only successfully cast 20 yards.

The Rower is as important as the fisherman. The rower may also need to take the wind into consideration as it will lengthen or shorten one’s casting ability.

4) Fish Where The Fish Are

Fish don’t live everywhere in the water.

Fish will be where there is shelter–like an undercut bank and overhanging trees. Fish will hang where there is food. Fish also like to spend time in highly-oxygenated water.

Fish will not be in the fast current, but they will live near that faster current. Look for bubble lines.

Eddies and pools are great places to find the fish as well. They will also hang out behind large boulders. Fish are most often found two to six feet from the bank.

Be sure to cast away from the boat (downstream). Mend, mend, mend. Presentation is critical. Be sure to set on every tick. Slowing the boat down and using eddies will help your fisherman be successful. Once you know where the fish are holding, target the same type of water as you float downstream.

5) River Right, River Left

It is critical for the fisherman and the rower to understand the difference between river right and river left.

It doesn’t matter what way you are facing on the boat; river right is always the right side of the river if you are looking downstream.

Just because you move around on the boat and in the river, River Right and River Left do not change.

6) The Fishing Clock

Typically, you will have two fishermen on board, one in the bow (front) of the boat and one in the rear (stern) of the boat.

Explain to everyone on board, that if you think of the boat as an analog clock with twelve o’clock being the front of the boat and six o’clock being the rear of the boat. (rowers seat is the center of the clock[JP1] ) This will make it easier for the fishermen to know where to cast.

The Rower can tell them to cast to two o’clock instead of saying, cast over toward that boulder, not the other boulder not that one.

It is important to know the skills level of your fisherman before you go.

The better fisherman should be in the back of the boat. Putting the less accomplished fisherman in the front of the boat will give them more room for error in casting and help them be successful. This setup is also best for the rower.

No one wants to get a fly stuck in the ear, neck, or anywhere other than in a fish’s mouth. The front of the boat fisherman will fish the water between ten o’clock and two o’clock positions.

The back of the boat fisherman will fish between two o’clock and four o’clock position and between eight o’clock and ten o’clock position.

7) Break The River Into Pieces

Look for weed beds, inside bends in the river, outside bends in the river, and cut banks.

There are all good places to find the fish. Fish also like to hang out in the mid-river foam lines. Eddies downriver from larger boulders are good resting spots for the fish while they wait for food to come by.

Fishing from slow water into faster water is a good spot to find fish.

Be sure to have your fishermen take turns casting in the approach to avoid tangles. Big eddy lines on inside bends almost always have fish. Cover this area with a team approach.

The boat can be rowed or anchored in the slow-water zone.

8) Understand Your Targets

Knowing the difference between a pocket, seam, and an eddy will help your fisherman be successful on the river.

A pocket is the area right behind (downriver of) a boulder in the river. A seam is the area where the fast-moving water meets a slower body of water and creates a “seam” again after the boulder, or bank jetting out into the river, where the water starts to flow again.

An Eddie is the section of water where a calm pool forms. Often the water current in an eddy will move you back upstream.

9) Casting Tips And Tricks

First and foremost, please crimp your hooks.

This is the best way to help the fish survive to allow you to catch them another day. It is also much easier to get a crimped hook out of your hand, ear, net, clothing, and pretty much anything else on the boat.

Fisherman should cast on the same side of the boat.

This will make it easier for the rower to line up on target areas and will significantly reduce the chances of the lines getting tangled.

As the fishermen, you need to learn to pick up and lay down your line on the river. The roll cast works well on a boat as so does a sidearm cast. Try to eliminate casting over the boat.

The person in the back of the boat controls the tangles which are always the back fisherman’s fault.

The front person cannot see the back person, so it is the rear fisherman’s job to pay attention and avoid getting the lines tangled when casting. Be sure to look downstream and be prepared for what is coming next.

As you float down the river the depth will be constantly changing. Always be prepared and adjust your rig as needed.

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10) The Importance of Boat Position

Typically, there are always two fishermen on board. As the rower, it is your job to get them both to the feeding fish. If the boat moves, their target moves, which is why back rowing is so important.

It gives the fishermen more time at each target to catch fish.

Fish are easily spoked, so making subtle boat movements are best. Be aware of the boat’s shadow. It will spook the fish.

Be sure to place your oars in the water quietly. Slapping the oar down flat on the water is a sure way to send the fish scattering.

Do everything you can to NOT spook the fish.

11) The Crawl Stroke

The crawl stroke it is a great way to help you “grab an eddy”.

This stroke also keeps the fishermen in position longer by keeping the boat parallel to the shore and therefore increasing their chances of catching fish.

This stroke allows the boat to be close to shore with minimal disturbance to the water and fish. It allows you to move sideways while slowing the boat at the same time.

The oar on the side of the boat that you want to move towards is a sweeping stroke with the oar pointing towards the front of the boat. The opposite side oar is a simple pull stroke, and used to keep the boat pointed in the direction the rower desires.

Master this stroke as it is the most important stroke while in slower, calm water.

12) Use The Right Equipment

When float fishing you will need a raft, dory, or pontoon boat. Lean bars and a stable floor on your boat will help the fishermen be stable which will help them catch fish and not fall out of the boat.

Make sure you have a good anchor.

This will make it much easier when you are netting fish, untangling lines, and when you want to stay in one spot on the water for a while.

Rod holders are key to keeping your equipment safe and readily available. Be sure to have a net with a long handle. The long handle works so much better to grab the fish from the boat than your shorter wade fishing net.

Be sure to have proper safety equipment on board. PFDs for everyone on board, a first aid kit, a throw bag (to help get people back in the boat if they fall out), and a dry set of clothes, just in case. Nine-foot rods in a five or six weight are best on the river.

7-foot or 9- foot leaders and fluorocarbon tippet are essential for your success on the river. Having multiple set up rods is the best plan and be sure to bring plenty of flies for the trip.

13) Practice Rowing

Spend time in the boat rowing. The more time on the sticks the more proficient you will become.

Rowing lessons are a great way to build your skill and confidence on the river. If you want to quickly learn how to row and fish a particular river go out with a fishing guide.

Most importantly, remember that the Rower’s main responsibility is to get safely down the river.

How To Row A Drift Boat Or Raft: 13 Tips To Catch More Fish

If you want to catch more fish on your next float trip, you need to learn how to row a drift boat or raft properly.

In this guide, I’m going to reveal 13 of my top rowing tips to help you get down the river safely, and maximize your fish-catching opportunities.

Let’s get started.

1) Get Down The River Safely (And Slowly)

I hope this goes without saying, but goal number one when rowing a drift boat or raft is to get down the river safely. No matter how big the fish might be, it isn’t worth risking your life or the life of others.

Goal number two is different.

For the White-Water trip, the thrill is going fast through the big hole, getting wet, and running down the wave trains.

Rowing for fishing, on the other hand, means going SLOW.

Not only does it provide more control, but back-rowing allows the fisherman more time at each hole.

Remember, fish don’t live in the crazy-fast-moving water, so you want to spend your time in eddies, along bubble lines, near riverbank cuts, and other cover.

2) Row Backwards More Than Forwards

The first thing to remember is to SLOW EVERYTHING DOWN.

You will row in a backstroke 90% of the time.

Point your boat toward the danger and pull away from the danger. You want to be out of the main current. The fish don’t live there, so you shouldn’t be there.

Your goal as the rower is to put the fisherman where the fish are so look far downstream for your target.

This will give you more time to fish that target without the shadow of the boat spooking the fish.

3) Place The Boat Within The Casting Capabilities Of The Fisherman

Being 30 yards from a target won’t work if your fisherman can only successfully cast 20 yards.

The Rower is as important as the fisherman. The rower may also need to take the wind into consideration as it will lengthen or shorten one’s casting ability.

4) Fish Where The Fish Are

Fish don’t live everywhere in the water.

Fish will be where there is shelter–like an undercut bank and overhanging trees. Fish will hang where there is food. Fish also like to spend time in highly-oxygenated water.

Fish will not be in the fast current, but they will live near that faster current. Look for bubble lines.

Eddies and pools are great places to find the fish as well. They will also hang out behind large boulders. Fish are most often found two to six feet from the bank.

Be sure to cast away from the boat (downstream). Mend, mend, mend. Presentation is critical. Be sure to set on every tick. Slowing the boat down and using eddies will help your fisherman be successful. Once you know where the fish are holding, target the same type of water as you float downstream.

5) River Right, River Left

It is critical for the fisherman and the rower to understand the difference between river right and river left.

It doesn’t matter what way you are facing on the boat; river right is always the right side of the river if you are looking downstream.

Just because you move around on the boat and in the river, River Right and River Left do not change.

6) The Fishing Clock

Typically, you will have two fishermen on board, one in the bow (front) of the boat and one in the rear (stern) of the boat.

Explain to everyone on board, that if you think of the boat as an analog clock with twelve o’clock being the front of the boat and six o’clock being the rear of the boat. (rowers seat is the center of the clock[JP1] ) This will make it easier for the fishermen to know where to cast.

The Rower can tell them to cast to two o’clock instead of saying, cast over toward that boulder, not the other boulder not that one.

It is important to know the skills level of your fisherman before you go.

The better fisherman should be in the back of the boat. Putting the less accomplished fisherman in the front of the boat will give them more room for error in casting and help them be successful. This setup is also best for the rower.

No one wants to get a fly stuck in the ear, neck, or anywhere other than in a fish’s mouth. The front of the boat fisherman will fish the water between ten o’clock and two o’clock positions.

The back of the boat fisherman will fish between two o’clock and four o’clock position and between eight o’clock and ten o’clock position.

7) Break The River Into Pieces

Look for weed beds, inside bends in the river, outside bends in the river, and cut banks.

There are all good places to find the fish. Fish also like to hang out in the mid-river foam lines. Eddies downriver from larger boulders are good resting spots for the fish while they wait for food to come by.

Fishing from slow water into faster water is a good spot to find fish.

Be sure to have your fishermen take turns casting in the approach to avoid tangles. Big eddy lines on inside bends almost always have fish. Cover this area with a team approach.

The boat can be rowed or anchored in the slow-water zone.

8) Understand Your Targets

Knowing the difference between a pocket, seam, and an eddy will help your fisherman be successful on the river.

A pocket is the area right behind (downriver of) a boulder in the river. A seam is the area where the fast-moving water meets a slower body of water and creates a “seam” again after the boulder, or bank jetting out into the river, where the water starts to flow again.

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An Eddie is the section of water where a calm pool forms. Often the water current in an eddy will move you back upstream.

9) Casting Tips And Tricks

First and foremost, please crimp your hooks.

This is the best way to help the fish survive to allow you to catch them another day. It is also much easier to get a crimped hook out of your hand, ear, net, clothing, and pretty much anything else on the boat.

Fisherman should cast on the same side of the boat.

This will make it easier for the rower to line up on target areas and will significantly reduce the chances of the lines getting tangled.

As the fishermen, you need to learn to pick up and lay down your line on the river. The roll cast works well on a boat as so does a sidearm cast. Try to eliminate casting over the boat.

The person in the back of the boat controls the tangles which are always the back fisherman’s fault.

The front person cannot see the back person, so it is the rear fisherman’s job to pay attention and avoid getting the lines tangled when casting. Be sure to look downstream and be prepared for what is coming next.

As you float down the river the depth will be constantly changing. Always be prepared and adjust your rig as needed.

10) The Importance of Boat Position

Typically, there are always two fishermen on board. As the rower, it is your job to get them both to the feeding fish. If the boat moves, their target moves, which is why back rowing is so important.

It gives the fishermen more time at each target to catch fish.

Fish are easily spoked, so making subtle boat movements are best. Be aware of the boat’s shadow. It will spook the fish.

Be sure to place your oars in the water quietly. Slapping the oar down flat on the water is a sure way to send the fish scattering.

Do everything you can to NOT spook the fish.

11) The Crawl Stroke

The crawl stroke it is a great way to help you “grab an eddy”.

This stroke also keeps the fishermen in position longer by keeping the boat parallel to the shore and therefore increasing their chances of catching fish.

This stroke allows the boat to be close to shore with minimal disturbance to the water and fish. It allows you to move sideways while slowing the boat at the same time.

The oar on the side of the boat that you want to move towards is a sweeping stroke with the oar pointing towards the front of the boat. The opposite side oar is a simple pull stroke, and used to keep the boat pointed in the direction the rower desires.

Master this stroke as it is the most important stroke while in slower, calm water.

12) Use The Right Equipment

When float fishing you will need a raft, dory, or pontoon boat. Lean bars and a stable floor on your boat will help the fishermen be stable which will help them catch fish and not fall out of the boat.

Make sure you have a good anchor.

This will make it much easier when you are netting fish, untangling lines, and when you want to stay in one spot on the water for a while.

Rod holders are key to keeping your equipment safe and readily available. Be sure to have a net with a long handle. The long handle works so much better to grab the fish from the boat than your shorter wade fishing net.

Be sure to have proper safety equipment on board. PFDs for everyone on board, a first aid kit, a throw bag (to help get people back in the boat if they fall out), and a dry set of clothes, just in case. Nine-foot rods in a five or six weight are best on the river.

7-foot or 9- foot leaders and fluorocarbon tippet are essential for your success on the river. Having multiple set up rods is the best plan and be sure to bring plenty of flies for the trip.

13) Practice Rowing

Spend time in the boat rowing. The more time on the sticks the more proficient you will become.

Rowing lessons are a great way to build your skill and confidence on the river. If you want to quickly learn how to row and fish a particular river go out with a fishing guide.

Most importantly, remember that the Rower’s main responsibility is to get safely down the river.

How to Build a River Raft Frame

license

Why spend the big money on a raft frame? You can save a lot of money and build a comparable frame with as many options as you desire! Our cost was $340 and a comparable frame is over $500. The weight wasn’t much more.

Step 1: Material Required

The following items are needed for a complete raft frame: galvanized steel pipe, QuickFit clamps, oar mounts, oar locks, and oar lock springs.

We are using QuickFit clamps from www.frontierplay.com and galvanized steel from Home Depot wich is used to build chain link fences. The oar mounts, locks, and springs can be purchased from www.frontierplay.com or www.nrsweb.com.

The completed weight is only a few pounds more than a comparable aluminum frame on the market.

Time spent to build the frame depends on how you choose to cut the galvanized pipe. Other than cutting, this frame assembles pretty quickly. Our kids thought it was a lot of fun assembling the frame.

Step 2: Additional Items for Assembling Frame

Items needed: tape measure, marker, allen wrench. One of the following items for cutting galvanized pipe: hax saw, pipe wrench, or power saw.

Step 3: Selecting Your Pipe

We purchased galvanized pipe from both Home Depot and Lowe’s. We wanted the 1.660 chain link line post and not the top rail tube.

The top picture shows the pipe from Lowe’s and the bottom pipe is from Home Depot. The price in our market was the same at both stores; however Lowe’s pipe was a lighter gauge and seemed to compress more then we liked when the QuickFit clamp was tightened on the pipe.

Home Depot’s 16 gauge in our market is what we are recommending because the pipe doesn’t compress down when the hex nut on the QuickFit clamp is tightened down.

Step 4: Selecting You Fittings

We went with FrontierPlay’s QuickFit clamps because they were easy to order and have been tested on raft frames.

Orignally we built our frame with 90 degree elbows for all 4 corners but ended up going away from the elbows because they cost more and are bulky.

The best item is the QuickFit T clamp ($9.95) because it’s smaller, better priced and accomplishes what we wanted: a low profile frame which wasn’t heavy, yet was durable with easy to add options.

Step 5: How Many Pipes and Fittings Do You Need?

Believe it or not this is the hardest step.

You now have to decide what size of frame you want to build. Are you building a frame for a day trip, overnighter or extended river trip? Do you want a place for a cooler, dry box, drop bag, etc? Will the rower sit on the cooler or seat?

The nice part about these frames is they are interchangeable with Northwest River Supplies (www.nrsweb.com) aluminum frames and NRS’s patented LoPro fittings (shown in picture). This option allows you to add fishing accessories, foot bars, and seat bars.

We recommend cutting your cross bars the same length as NRS’s frame options so if you want to add a foot or seat bar it’s easy to interchange.

If you really want to simplify the process FrontierPlay (www.frontierplay.com) offers a “Build Your Own” package option where you can select all the features you can imagine. It’s really cool and worth checking out.

Step 6: Assembling Your Frame

You now have your fittings and pipe and you are ready to get started.

You will have two rails ($8.75 each) which rest on the lateral tubes of your raft. We went with the 8′ posts because the rails are the longest part of the frame. The cross bars can be shorter and cost us $6.98 each, you will need as many as your uses require.

There are two key frame measurements: center-to-center and flat length. Calculate the center-to-center measurement by taking the width (outer dimension) of your raft and subtracting the diameter of one tube.

We are showing two pictures. One picture places the frame directly on top of the tube using the above directions. We prefer to extend the frame a little pass the center which creates an easier walking platform and more frame surface area for securing your items.

For flat length, measure longwise along the relatively flat surface of a tube or pontoon; this measurement will indicate how long your frame can be.

Read Post  Tahoe Truckee River Rafting

We mentioned earlier that we recommend building the frame so it will inter-link with NRS accessories. NRS’s frames comes in the lengths of 54″, 60″, 66″, and 72″. When cutting your cross bars subtract 1 3/4″ from the NRS frame width. Example: for a 60″ frame cut your cross bars at 58 1/4″.

These pictures show a NRS foot bar being used with this frame.

Step 7: Putting the Frame Together

You have now made all your pipe cuts and you are ready to start connecting your rails, fittings, and cross bars.

Slide how many fittings you plan on using onto each rail. Lay the rail on a flat surface and estimate where you’ll want your fittings and then tighten the hex screw.

When one rail is complete do the exact same thing with the other rail. It helps to line up the second rail next to the completed rail. Tighten the hex screw in each fitting.

Make sure the fittngs are tightened on a flat surface to ensure the cross bars will line up with each other.

Now separate the two rails and insert the cross bars into the QuickFit clamps. Once all the cross bars are in place go back and tighten the hex screw.

You now have a raft frame. You can measure your cooler and or dry box to determine where the cross bars need to be located. I usually at this point crab the cooler or dry box and adjust the bars based on the actual fit of the cross bar. Make sure you leave just enough room to get a strap between the cooler/dry box and the cross bar.

Step 8: Accessorize Your Frame

You now need to add the oar mount (69.95 pair). Placement for the oar mount is a personal preference.

It is our recommendation to purchase a NRS foot bar (69.95) because it’s solid and won’t rotate like a foot bar made out of QuickFit clamps can.

We have attached a picture of a foot bar made out of QuickFit clamps. We like this option if the bar is resting directly against a solid item such as a cooler or dry box. The bar won’t rotate and works great for securing a cooler or dry box.

Step 9: Oar Mount Options

You’re almost done!

Now you need to decide what type of oar mount sytem you want to go with. You can go with an oar lock or a pin and clip system.

Pros vs. Cons of Open Oarlocks:

Pros: Oars slide easily up and back down the oarlock when pulling oar in to avoid obstacles. Easy to re-position mid-rapid if “popped out” of oarlock. Ability to feather blade (when not using oar rights).

Cons: More expensive. Oar can be completely released from oarlock if enough force is applied. Has more “play” which can be noisy.

Pros vs. Cons of Pin and Clips:

Pros: Holds oar and blade very securely. Less expensive. Hard to lose oar if oar stirrup is used. Quiet System.

Cons: Oars can be difficult to pull in when approaching obstacles. Hose clamps can damage oar shaft. Feathering blade is not possible.

Step 10: Final Key Accessories to Add

With our frame we used four 6′ 1″ web straps for our cooler and dry box support with 8 strap sliders which was about $10.

If you want to really accessorize your frame, add the NRS cooler mount and NRS dry box mount ($65).

If you want to add comfort add the NRS seat bar ($95) and seat. There are two types of seats you can add. One is small and durable and easier to stack mutiple frames on top of each other for traveling ($66). The other seat is very comfortable and can get in the way a little more when transporting a lot of items on a vehicle. If you want the comfort, the bigger seat is worth the money $90).

Step 11: Congratulations!

Wow, you built your own frame and it’s really easy to add or adjust as you wish.

Now get out of town and away from work and enjoy your new frame on your favorite river.

Have fun and enjoy!

Step 12: Improve Your Frame

If you want your frame really solid so it can’t be taken apart go to Lowe’s and buy Plumbing Contact Adhesive Sealant which is a clear substance (looks like shoe goe). Place this material around the outside edge of the T-clamp. Looks really good and holds extremely well.

We only found the need to use this material on our cross bar being used to hold a fishing thigh bar. The bar would rotate from the leverage placed on the thigh bar.

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25 Comments

rogoparrish

I built a fishing frame with these instructions and first would like to thank the poster. I did notice a few things have changed in the years since this has been put up. First, the pipe from HD is from Vietnam now and doesn’t seem as good as Lowes, USA made at the moment. Also my Lowes has has more selection in terms of length. Even bigger is that Lowes sells these 1.25″ fittings now. $6.95 per T fitting at the moment and they look better. I tried the glue option for my fishing frame and let it set up and it didn’t hold on the seat bars so I ended up breaking out the welder and laid heavy tacks on either side of the fittings once everything was assembled and sliding smoothly.

IMG_4633.jpgIMG_4635.jpg

pumphreyml

Reply 1 year ago

Did you make your thigh bars? they look really good!

rmarr44

Reply 2 years ago

Did you use the NRS seat mount for your seats? I see on their website it says it fits a 1.58″ diameter frame and the one in this project is 1.25″. Just wondered if you were able to make it work with the smaller diameter pipe.

KateS135

Question 3 years ago on Step 12

Hey! Why do you recommend cutting the pipe 1 3/4″ less than the equivalent NRS length. Is this because the Frontierplay fittings ad length? Thank you! I am building a 72″L x 60″W frame.

vladivastok

[NOT MAD CAPS] LIKE THE WHOLE IDEA. IVE ALWYS BEEN A CANOE MAN. DON’T LIKE THE IDEA OF ROWING WITH MY NECK & HEAD CRANED BEHIND ME , TO SEE WHERE IM GOING. I HAVE ALREADY ASKED THE QUESTION MANY TIMES BEFORE. ” CAN YOU REVERSE ROW & SEE YOUR COURSE LOOKING FOWARD ALL THE TIME LIKE YOU DO WITH PADDLES?? THANK’S [VLAD]

CoreyB55

Reply 3 years ago

I’m a white water rafter . We forward row everything unless it’s small volume and super technical. Big volume is awesome on a forward row . Ferry angle is key to everything rafting . I think another name for forward rowing is portague or something like that .

6A37D88B-C9E4-43DE-B307-639C660DE332.jpeg

villagelightsmith

Reply 4 years ago

You just don’t want to row!

There are several satisfactory ways to accomplish this.

First, is teach somebody else to row.That will get you off the hook until they get tired of it. Best way I’ve found s to set them atop the gear pile behind me and demonstrate what the oar strokes do. Pull on the left/right. push on the left/right, push/pull on both oars. Then acquaint them with what the current does to the boat and how to ferry across currents, spin the boat, take a wave, or get you over to a good fishing spot(!)

Second, is learn to like it. I’m in my 8th decade, been playing in the water all my life, and other than occasionally showing off, I haven’t really learned this. Adopting a “Servant’s Heart” will make you into everybody’s hero and mentor.

Third, is to row with those 3-bladed oars, put out by Evinrude, Mercury, Suzuki and Honda. They are easy, if noisy. Sailers call them “The Iron Wind.”

As for navigation, everything I know about rivers I learned before I was 10 years old, playing in a creek about 3 feet wide. Toss in a stick and see where the current takes it. The rest is intuitive and you’ll figure it out.

Oh yes! Despite what you’ve been told, there exists one foolish question; “Do I have to wear a life jacket?” The answer is “Yes!” Even when wading past your ankles, you’d better consider it. Up to your knees, I’ll be all over you like stink. We know of too many ways that moving water kills. And even an Olympian will tell you they can’t swim in the stuff where WE go! Every drowning is unexpected. But every drowning is so simple, looking back. Learn everything you can about RIVER rescue, so your trip doesn’t necessitate a “recovery.” That really ruins your day . believe it.

Source https://riverbum.com/riverbum-blog/how-to-row-a-drift-boat-or-raft-13-tips-to-catch-more-fish/

Source https://riverbum.com/riverbum-blog/how-to-row-a-drift-boat-or-raft-13-tips-to-catch-more-fish/

Source https://www.instructables.com/How-to-build-a-river-raft-frame/

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